Baptism in Grasse

Aston the adorable chihuahua

Up at 0400 to leave cold, cold Paris to get to sunny Grasse via train, bus, taxi, donkey if necessary. It took until 2pm to finally reach our destination which was to meet a perfumer. Spent a couple of amazing hours with her before we dragged fatigued, hungry bods into the town square where my early evening began with two vital necessities...a brick of chocolate covered nougat and a large coffee. Then along came Aston...the friendly chihuahua and we simply had to have a cuddle!

We were fortunate enough this morning to witness the baptism of children at the 12th century Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy.

Each child received a double handful of chilly water from the priest, much to the surprise of most of them. Parents were there with towels and hugs to save the day. The beautiful family ceremony at Grasse in southern France concluded with each child lighting a candle.

Really enjoying strolling about Grasse without a tourist in sight. Surely it is time for the French government to take control of taxi services outside of Paris. The cabbies at the Cannes railway station are in a word 'crooks' - demanding a price before you go anywhere and insisting on cash only. How do they get away with it in this day and age?

- compiled from Ian's Facebook posts

Fun, love and nothing to do in Paris

Wandering about Paris with no particular itinerary in mind is a great way to really get to know this beautiful city.

I was staying at the Cordelia Hotel in Opera at 11 Rue Greffulhe and started my morning stroll by walking a minute down the road to a new restaurant called Boco for a coffee. This is an amazing new concept in economy gournmet food. Leading chefs have contributed favourite dishes which are purchased in glass jars. After selection, your meal is heated and served with thick slices of delicious bread. More on Boco later.

It was Easter in Paris – crisp in the morning, tiny green shoots just beginning to poke out of carefully pruned street trees. Gardens were yet to be planted adding to a rather drab effect – however colour is everywhere if you seek it out.

So, off I go on a five minute walk to the Saint Lazare Train Station which was once upon a time linked to the elegant, Victorian style Hilton Opera Hotel (previously Concorde Opera) next door. Here you will find one of the most beautiful foyers in Paris – go in and have a look. The property was recently taken over by Hilton and I wanted to know if renovations were finished. Sorry, but one floor still to go, I was advised. “This summer we will be finished”. Pity the poor guests who were told that same story last year. The renovated rooms are an improvement, particularly the bathrooms, but the old Victorian style elegance has been lost along the way. That's progress for you. Continuing along Rue Saint-Lazare the first burst of color and rich perfume emerges – beautiful long stemmed roses being whipped out of boxes and pressed into eager hands. These sellers have to move quickly – this mobile streetside “shop” is illegal and the police chase them away on a regular basis. I have to sneak a photograph – everyone is tense and very suspicious.

Across the road and I head into the basement of a department store to be greeted by beautiful girls spinning about on rollerskates handing out promotion sized cups of coffee and chips of chocolate. You have to smile. All of Paris seems to be on sale these days – the country is going through difficult economic times much like Australia.

Even big names like GAP is offering was a whopping 50 per cent off. I move on, heading up to street level and emerging at rue Caumartin. There is a basement Monoprix as you head towards the Printemps department store where you can buy just about anything, including wine. Not that I have ever bought a bottle that impresses me – quite the reverse in fact. Sadly the French have still not heard about screw caps so always take a corkscrew with you. The best advice I can give other than to buy Australian wine (boring I know) is stick with rose. Interestingly the consumption of wine in France is on a downward slide. Look carefully at the streetside cafes and it will be the tourists who are drinking wine. The locals prefer coffee or even Coke.

Anyway, we often use this supermarket – but keep in mind the French have absolutely no idea about speedy check-out. If there are crowds shopping, get set for a long wait. Just want a salad or delicious bread rolls or pastries? Head for the counter on the left hand side before you enter the supermarket.

Things are warming up now – the pale sunlight is finally having an effect. Printemps is turning up the temperature as well – the entire building has turned bright pink in celebration of its 150th anniversary.

Galeries Lafayette (France Tourism)

I march on past Galeries Lafayette towards the Opera House which is sporting the most enormous advertising sign for Miss Dior. The purists will simply gasp in horror at such blatant commercialism – but times, as it said, are tough.

I now decide to head towards Concorde Square via the famed Angelina with its astonishingly beautiful pastries and permanently packed out tea rooms to view this year’s Easter offering. It's called the Belle Epoque Egg which according to the management “shows mouldings, gildings and fine details reminding of the timeless elegance of Angelina. Its Peruvian dark chocolate hull holds dark, milk and white chocolate fish.” Sounds amazing and should be considering the price tag of $30.

You just have to head into these famous tea rooms and choose from the scrummy range of pastries.

Close to Concorde now, I stroll past a motorbike taxi lurking beside a fountain - looks like the traffic can be so bad these days that two wheels are an answer. That certainly is the case in Bangkok. Everywhere shops are enticing me to sample croissants cakes, pastries, chocolate, pies, baguettes. Now hungry, I head for rue de rivoli which is usually so packed with visitors it is best avoided. I enjoy more people spotting sitting at a street-side table enjoying lunch and then head home very pleased with my relaxing morning. Just as I reach the square I am lucky enough to spot a wonderfully iconic Paris moment. With perfect almost theatrical timing as the sun really breaks out, a beautiful girl with long dark hair rushes around the corner of rue saint florentin and falls in the arms of a tall dark stranger. Seemingly oblivious to the hundreds of tourists and motorists milling about (the traffic was shocking that morning) they kiss and hug before she unwinds and disappears as quickly as she had arrived.

Even at her most drab before Spring rejuvenates the scarecrow trees and empty gardens, Paris is still very much for lovers, an walkers.

Five star food in Paris on a tight budget

Can Paris possibly cook up a new new concept in dining for lovers of fine food on a small budget?

The answer is yes, the restaurant is called Boco.

In a nutshell you enter a warm and welcoming environment and choose your meal from an astonishing array of enticing mains followed by an equally long list of yummy deserts and other goodies - all prepared in glass containers called Weck jars. There is also a small but carefully chosen selection of well priced red and white wines which can be puchased by the glass. Our restaurant was at 75 rue des Mathurins, a short walk from the Hotel Cordelia in Opera where we stayed. The restaurant was never overcrowded and the staff charming and helpful. We enjoyed the experience so much we dined there two nights running.

Some of the finest chefs in France have been enlisted to prepare organic gournet delights like marinated mackerel with orange-eggplant caviar, duck with black currant seeds and baked polenta. Brothers Simon and Vincent Ferniot asked five chefs, all with Michelin 3-star credentials and three top pastry chefs to develop the recipes which are revisited twice a year.

Since the first shop opened at Opera the business has expanded into four other areas plus Orly airport. Starters range from Salmon gravlax, black radish salad and potatoes: “a fresh salad of tart apples and survey radish, topped with a few slices of sweet marinated salmon gravlax.” (7.60€). The hardest part of the experience is choosing from the list of mains – for instance Pig simmered, melting polenta with roasted corn: ”The pig slowly simmered in its own juice served with creamy polenta flavored with rosemary. To add a crisp notes we sprinkled with roasted sweet corn kernels” (8.60€).

Garnishes include Eastern carrots, parsnips and celeriac roasted: 
”We cooked these roots with an oriental touch that brings the sun: olive oil, orange, spices and sesame”. Still hungry – the cheeses range from Soft blue Vercors-Sassenage and dried figs: 
”The softest blue cheese and dried figs retained sugar. Marriage tasty but never strong. “
(4.60€). Desserts to die for were headlined by Crème caramel with salted butter 
"A smooth cream with gelling" cold "keeps all the flavor of the farmer cream and organic eggs. The soft caramel grain of salt prevents this dessert too sweet note. A top of the caramel cream." 
(4€). Or, how about Black sesame cream, pistachio crumble 
”It is in its unusual gray livery that sesame cream reveals all the flavors of a delicious praline oriental supported by the fineness of pistachio crumble.” 
(4, 20€). Like a cookie with your coffee? There is plenty to choose from including a Cookie with dark chocolate (3 00 €) and Cookie White Chocolate Hazelnut (3 00€).

So what did it cost for two? Main courses plus bread 20.10€ – drinks 10.40€.

This is a dining experience I can thoroughly recommend. Check out the website for other locations. www.boco.fr

Boco on TripAdvisor

Time Square New York City

You never quite know who you are going to bump into strolling through Time Square in New York - even when it is snowing.

Loving Blacklane Limos

Have to be impressed with the Blacklane limo service. The driver is always on time, vehicles are superb and they keep you informed via phone and email - right down to advising who the driver is and how to contact him if, for instance, you left something in the car.

New York to Paris on budget Norwegian 787

Bit hairy jumping on a plane this morning after the latest catastrophe. We were on Norwegian out of New York - chosen by yours truly because the aircraft was a Dreamliner. This was my first experience on Boeing's pride and joy and a dream flight it was. I expected the interior to look a little less conventional than it did - but perhaps this was a budget layout. Norwegian by the way was one of the first European carriers to enforce the two people in the cockpit at all times rule. 

Norwegian 787 interior (supplied)

The service on board was fine - seating a bit cramped perhaps. Goodies included a reasonable selection of movies and WiFi. Norwegian is the only budget carrier to fly across the Atlantic. We will be in Paris for a few days researching for a new book before heading to Provence and Grasse. Crazy as it seems, one way fares from New York to Paris can cost $2000pp and more.

How to beat skyrocketing hotel prices in London

The plunge in the Aussie dollar is rapidly bringing an end to the good times for travellers to the UK and Europe.

Hotels are close to gorgeous London parks (Ian McIntosh)

A 4 star hotel in London for instance now costs around 400 pounds a night - that today (March 29, 2015) converts into $768. Scary stuff, I am sure you agree. Bit of a joke as well when you think of the 5 star hotels in Asia you can buy for around $200 a night. My wife loves the finer things in life but has a theory about expensive hotels."I would rather wear it," she blithely says. And so I spend a lot of my time these days looking for properties that offer the creature comforts we all demand - at a decent price. Meanwhile Fiona heads for Harrods or Massimo Dutti in Paris.

Most of the time I get it right but you do make the odd error. As a base, I use booking.com and comb through hundreds of properties on offer. Thankfully you can select the area you want and the star rating - which makes the search that much easier. On my most recent visit to London and Paris I looked at a number of hotels and was not really disappointed with any of them - although a couple were overdue for a fresh broom.There is something to be said for staying in a smaller hotel as against the Hiltons and the like - the people in reception for a start really want to help and quickly get to know you. One hotel chain that does seem to specialise in smaller more intimate hotels in Paris and London is Best Western. Negotiating the lift is part of the fun in Paris - there is often just enough room for one person plus a suitcase. Breakfast, usually served in the basement, should be part of the deal - lots of bread, fruit, yoghurt, cereal, coffee, tea, croissants cheese and cold meats. True, you are not going to meet the Queen down there - but you can eat your fill - and probably sneak out a sandwich for later - although I didn't tell you that. Always pay for as much as possible before you leave Australia because the price is then fixed.

Bedroom - The New Linden

I started out in London staying in a hotel in an area I know well and really like - Westminster. The Duke of Leinster is is short walk away from the Royal parks for those of you who like to jog in beautiful surrounds each evening. The Lancaster tube and a few pleasant pubs including the Leinster Arms are a walk away. This hotel serves the best sausages and mash in London. Another plus is the fact that the Leinster is not an expensive cab ride from say Victoria Station. The girls in reception were delightful and a small but reasonably swift lift soon had us on the fourth floor.

Pleasant surprises continued. The room was freshly painted and carpeted and the bathroom fairly new as well. We had a flat TV, iron and board, safe (old mechanical style not easy to use) fridge, desk, hair dryer plus tea and coffee making facilities. The double bed was comfy and lighting was generally very good. All of this for around 100 quid a night. I was on to a real winner until later that afternoon when the room warmed up and I poked about looking for the air conditioning. There was none - not that cooling is important for most of the year. 

All considered, we quite enjoyed out stay. Continental breakfast was included and if you wanted it cooked the extra charge was only £2.50 for sausages and eggs. The main dining room is a floor below reception but we preferred the small area set up for breakfast near the front entrance by a picture window overlooking the street. Service was always prompt and with a smile. No complaints about the bathroom - plenty of hot water and the towels were thick and big. Take a decent cake of soap with you though. Another plus was the fact that a selection of newspapers was available in a rack by reception each morning. If you feel you need a step up - across the road is the Blakemore Hyde Park - cost is around 200 pounds a night. The second London hotel was nearly - The New Linden is also in Leinster Square Bayswater. This property is really close to great pubs, major shopping complexes and restaurants, as well as the Royal Parks. The value was there - three nights for just over 300 pounds including breakfast – but the decor was a little drab, there was no fridge and again no air-conditioning. I was on the top floor overlooking the square. Breakfast was simple but filling - no complaints. The shower was great along with the big, thirsty towels.

Remember I have stayed at all of these hotels - so if you need more information or assistance please contact me on ianmac@travelagentupdate.com. My advice is independent and free.

How to find budget hotels in Paris

So, on to Paris, the real home of small family style hotels. First on the list was The Aviatic, well positioned at 15 Rue de Vaugirard on the left bank close to the Montparnasse Station and central St Germain. The 43 rooms here have all been completely renovated and the person responsible deserves a gold medal. His or her work is a benchmark for small hotel operators. Despite the small size of the rooms, everything is just about perfect - from decor to lighting and the bathroom although I would have eliminated the bath. Breakfast is fine along with the reception staff. The best news is this property usually has a special deal going – check the website.

Hotel Millesime

Next we have the Hotel Millesime, again on the left bank at 15 Rue Jacob, a short walk from the Notre-Dame and a pleasant stroll along the River Seine embankment to The Louvre, Concorde Square and beyond. This property is very cute - housed in an ancient building that was a monastery. The rooms are quite big by Paris standards, reception very helpful, the lift big enough for two but the property it is a little tired and you wouldn't want a room by the lift. I am informed that this hotel is currently undergoing a complete restoration so check the website for details.

It certainly was the best value but The Hotel Choiseul Opera had me worried – just 69 euro a night – breakfast an extra 13. I walked to 1 rue Daunou – the hotel is well located close to the Opera House, shopping, bars (including Hemingway favourite, Harry’s Bar) and restaurants. The receptionist was charming and I was soon heading to the second floor and room 206. The lift is small even by Paris standards – just room for me followed by my faithful old Air Canada suitcase. Despite my misgivings the room was fine with a well stacked minibar, small desk with three power points, comfy queen size bed with a lighting master switch either side. The goodies included air conditioning, heated towel rail, full length mirror, safe at face level to make its use simple and an excellent shower. Soap and shampoo were provided. Free wifi and a new Philips TV completed the package. Breakfast in the morning with the hotel cat watching on was delicious and filling.

Lounge - Hotel Cordelia

Last but by no means least, again in the Opera district, is the very delightful Cordelia Hotel, 11 rue de Greffuhle. I spent a night here and enjoyed it so much I have made a new booking for later this year. As well as very comfortable and well equipped rooms there is a delightful lounge and bar on the ground floor.

If you want to jump up a star, look at the Concorde Opera now operated by Hilton which features one of the most beautiful foyers in Paris - now used as a bar as well as a lounge. This hotel was originally linked to the railway station next door and was the darling on trans Atlantic travellers. The Victorian era rooms are huge with high ceilings and Hilton is slowly renovating each one one with a new look and in particular beautiful bathrooms. The renovations should be completed by the start of the European summer but check – nothing worse than waking up to the tune of a jackhammer. Opera is a great location by the way if you love shopping with Printemps and Galeries Lafayette usually only a walk away from your hotel.Another elegant hotel in Paris to look at if you want to go really upmarket is the Victoria Palace Hotel, 6, rue Blaise Desgoffe. So there you have it. Spend your money on a hotel room - or on touring/shopping.

Casablanca airport transfers - a good idea?

Just to be on the safe side, I decided to organise a transfer from Casablanca Airport to our hotel.

To be exact a private taxi organised and paid for through suntransfers.com. (screen grab above)

All the details were correct, we arrived at 7.15am on July 13 (was the date an omen?) from Charles de Gaulle. We were to be taken to the Kenzi Tower Hotel, Twin Centre. Only problem was no one turned up to pick us up. We looked around and concerned locals called the so-called priority lines we were given. The number turned out to be in Spain. 

Moroccan taxis (reversehomesickness)

Anyway, we ended up getting a local cab - the most beaten up Merc I have ever seen - so bad the roof lining had been pushed back into place using a staple gun. The driver was pleasant enough - but we were very happy to arrive in one piece. My email of complaint was answered quickly but our payment was never refunded. The return journey went without a hitch - the driver found us at the hotel and took us to the airport in a near new car. 

To conclude: Organising a transfer from Casablanca Airport is a good idea but don't rely on Suntransfers

Ian Mcintosh is Australia's senior traveller.